"Live, Laugh, Love" Patterns

Posted by Jeremy Walls | Labels: , , , , | Posted On Wednesday, July 08, 2015 at 11:00 PM

Live-Laugh-Love. We've all heard the saying, and by now its become so cliché that most of you probably want nothing to do with it. However, we've decided to make a post with old patterns we'd designed, yet had never posted, and in that collection happened to be patterns for "Live", "Laugh", and "Love".
The patterns are meant to be cut and hung in a row together, but could also work individually. The "Love" pattern has a heart in it, which kind of sets it apart from the other two, so it may suit you to not cut the heart out for the sake of uniformity.

Glue-Up Tabletop

Posted by Jeremy Walls | | Posted On Sunday, June 15, 2014 at 11:55 PM

Now I know we've gotten off topic from scroll sawing specific posts on our site lately, but I'm about to do it one more time. It's all woodworking related anyhow. A while back I posted about the making of exotic hardwood cutting boards. They're a really simple and fast way to make stunning pieces for the kitchen. After my mother asked me to refinish an old cast-iron sewing machine table, I decided to use the idea of the cutting boards and apply it to the project! I sanded and repainted the base, and also made a glue-up tabletop using maple, walnut, wenge, padauk, and purpleheart. She wanted a modern twist to the antique so I thought the glue-up worked perfect.

The use of glue-ups can be used for fretwork projects or any woodworking projects to create stunning and original pieces. Send me pictures of your glue-up projects! Next post will be a pattern, so stay tuned!

Collaborative Post: Chess Board

Posted by Eric Lochtefeld | Labels: , , , | Posted On Sunday, June 08, 2014 at 7:45 PM

This post is a collaboration between the Scroll Bench Team and Tina Cuadra.

"Hi, this is a chess set and table my husband and I made. The chess pieces are made of popular and redwood. The table was made from mahogany and maple. This was a very difficult project to make because of all the compound cuts. The squares on the table are larger than normal to fit the bug pieces but I think I like it better that way because you have more table space. We made it coffee table size so when we're not playing chess it's a pretty table. Just remember when cutting the chess pieces try to use somewhat soft wood because they are hard to cut. I also wrap my compounds with clear packing tape because it makes it easier to cut." - Tina Cuadra

The pattern came from this book on Amazon:

Wooden Chess Sets You Can Make: 9 Complete Designs for the Scroll Saw

If you would like to share your project or a post idea, please contact Admin@ScrollBench.com with details and pictures.

We're on Pinterest

Posted by Eric Lochtefeld | | Posted On Sunday, June 01, 2014 at 5:00 PM

We're increasing our social media reach! Come check out our pins on Pinterest!

Making of Exotic Hardwood Cutting Boards

Posted by Jeremy Walls | Labels: , , , , , | Posted On Sunday, January 12, 2014 at 4:28 PM

Many of you have probably already made cutting boards before, and it's a pretty common sense process, but I'm going to walk you through it anyway. I started out just making cutting boards from scraps, but with the demand I had for them, I decided to start making them in "batches". I drove down to my nearest lumber store and purchased about $200 worth of various exotic hardwoods. Wenge, yellowheart, purpleheart, walnut, and maple are my primary choices since they are hard enough to resist slices of the knife. Because I don't own a very nice table saw, I had the lumber company straight-line rip my boards for ten cents per board foot. If you do want to put a straight edge on the boards yourself, I recommend finding a solid piece of angle iron and using that to run through with the boards.
Cutting boards before being planed down.
I make my cutting boards by using a variety of 1/8", 1/2", and 3/4" strips. That being said, the next step is set the table saw fence to 1/8" and run the boards through, creating as many strips as you desire. The same is done with the 1/2" and 3/4" strips. Next the boards are mitered to the length desired, and the strips are glued in whatever pattern is chosen. After the glue dries, the clamps are removed, and the boards are run through the planar to even them out. Next, the boards are mitered to even out the ends, and the edges are routed with a round-over bit.

The mineral oil and beeswax creates a smooth shine.

The finishing of the boards is perhaps the most important part of the process. For my boards, I sand them with 80, 120, and 220 grit sandpaper and then apply a 1:1 mixture of all natural beeswax and food-safe mineral oil. The wax is melted on the stove and the oil is added to it. Doing so not only provides a very smooth, finish and shiny luster, but also a sanitary and anti-bacterial finish. The beeswax fills the pores in the wood, and prevents moisture and bacteria from settling on the board. After vigorously rubbing the oil/wax mixture into the wood, I let the
The food-safe mineral oil I use.
Found at Walmart or Amazon.
boards sit for 10 minutes before wiping off the excess with a towel. And with that, the boards are finished! I don't put routed grooves in my boards because people have told me that they don't like when vegetable pieces among other things get caught in the groove as they slide the pieces off the board. I also don't put rubber feet on my boards so that they may be used for cutting on one side, and displayed on the other side.

Larger Map Here